14/02/15 - 19:06. Cushcraft 13B2N 2 METER BROADBAND BOOMER SSB-CW-FM YAGI 144-146 MHz.pdf, 203 Kb, 01/03/15 - 12:00. Cushcraft A14810S 2 METER YAGI ANTENNA 144-148MHz.pdf, 596 Kb, 01/03/15 - 12:00. Cushcraft A14820S 2. 01/03/15 - 12:00. Cushcraft AV-80 manual.pdf, 6 Mb, 11/12/15 - 12:12. PACKET STATUS REGISTER - PDF1 TAPR PSR #8. 3 PACKET STATUS REGISTER president s corner Dayton, Directors and the DCC By John Ackermann, N8. UR As I write this, it's just two more weeks to Hamvention. TAPR will be there in force, but in a slightly different space this year. Cushcraft 2M Wideband Yagi Beam Antennas were designed using the newest computer-optimized methods for improved pattern, gain and enhanced FM coverage Find Cushcraft 2M Wideband Yagi Beam Antennas A14810S and get Free Standard Shipping on orders over $99 at DX Engineering! Cushcraft A3s Antenna Manual. A3S, 42 KB 244 KB. A3WS, 42 KB 660 KB. A4S, 42 KB 251 KB. A14711, 558 KB. A14810S, 56 KB 595 KB. A14820S, 721 KB. A14820T, 48 KB 624 KB. The third antenna is a Cushcraft A3WS. The D3 and D3W require 8 caps, the D4 requires 12, the A3(S) requires 24, the A3W(S).

One caveat re this antenna: It employs elements in the vertical plane (for FM work) and the horizontal plane (for SSB/CW, and everything else) and only works properly if installed on a non-conductive support mast. If you install it on a metallic mast, the performance of the vertical-plane yagi suffers a great deal. Also, with this or any vertically-polarized beam antenna: Best performance is only achieved when the coaxial transmission line is routed from the vertical driven element to the rear of the antenna, taped or tied behind the reflector element, and allowed to drop down vertically one wavelength (about 78" before bringing the cable back towards the support mast or tower and securing it there. Reason is: If you route the coaxial transmission line down the antenna boom to the support mast and then run it down the mast, this creates the same problem as a metallic support mast, i.e., you now have an undesired vertical reflector sticking up through the middle of your yagi!

In actual antenna range testing at the Central States VHF Conference several years ago, we noted the 'difference' in performance of a vertically polarized two meter yagi mounted on a metallic mast, or having its coax routed down a metallic or non-conductive mast, and using the more proper (and described above) method is very considerable -- not just a dB or two, but literally 'S' units worth of difference. Until you try it, it's hard to believe. I had one of the A14820T cross yagis for about 3 years with no problems. I had it mounted to a 10 ft metal mast, in a 3 foot (radio shack) roof tripod up at about 35 feet above ground level. A light weight CDR rotor moved it easily.

Feed line was 2 coaxes, both 9913 and ran about 80 feet into the radio room. Feed lines ran just as the cushcraft instructions called out. Was running a TM-255 Kenwood 2 meter all mode with a mirage amp, putting out about 100 watts. It ran just fine!

No problems at all. Reason I got rid of it, 2 meter side band just was not as fun as 6 meters, so I replaced the antenna with a 5 element 6 meter yagi. I had good reports on 2 meter SSB with a regular talking range of about 300 miles (alt here is 1650 ft above sea level in EN91).

Ran FM on the vertical and could hit any repeater I wanted with low power (5 watts) in about an 80 mile radius. I see them around at hamfests once in a while, but not too often. I've had a variation of this antenna on my antenna 'stack' for a few years. I have a 50 foot tower with a 12 foot mast out the top. My A147-22T (11 elements horizontal & 11 elements vertical) is mounted at the top of the mast with the coax running along the boom to the mast. It runs down the mast and forms a 'half loop' at the top of the tower.

The height of the antenna is approximately 60 feet. This arrangement worked very well until the 9913 coax center conductor on both coax runs broke in that 'half loop'. The center conductor is solid, not stranded, copper wire and doesn't take to well to the constant flexing. I've had a couple of these, and used them all wrong, and they still work fine. I'm a little surprised at WIK's comments - it was my understanding that Cushcraft designed their vertical yagis to work well on a metal mast. I vaguely remember discussions about this back in neolithic times.

But, it would not surprise me at all - I usually use a wooden or fiberglass mast for vertical yagis. When I lived in Des Moines, I could literally work repeaters all over the state with it, and it was 'OK' on SSB - it does not have the gain or directivity of a really big yagi, but it's better than a poke in the eye. I could work SSB stations all over the upper midwest. I used one of these as my first antenna for working the Oscar 10 satellite. I whipped up a quick phasing harness and fed it as a circular antenna, propped up against a ladder in the back yard. It actually worked very well - the vertical yagi is cut for high end of the band and the horizontal one is for the low end, so feeding them this way resulted in something that worked pretty well in the middle of the band. I've about decided to put up another one, because I need some gain on FM and it would be nice to be able to actually do something in the VHF contests besides working Eskip on 6.

Click to expand.The only way to use a vertically polarized yagi on a metal mast is if the mast is behind the yagi's reflector ('end mount' antenna). When the mast protrudes through the yagi, there's no way that's going to work well -- you can't design around this: It's an untuned element in the radiation plane, and that's never good. Nor is running the coax feedline down the mast, because that's another untuned element in the radiation plane. It will 'work,' as 'everything works' to some degree -- but you'll never get the full benefit of the antenna that way, not even with a lot of luck. Using a non-conductive mast helps a lot, as does letting the coax feedline hang down from behind the reflector element for >1 wavelength before bringing it back to the support mast.

Hi, Although I don't have a homeowners assn to contend with, I prefer to be discreet with antenna(s). Cushcraft A148-10S bought at a yard sale. I rebuilt the 10 element beam, cleaned corrosion, replaced all nuts bolts, then spray-painted it black after masking off the 'electrical' contacts so as not to insulate something important. Painted the mast dull brown.

Tuning down the SWR is like trying to stuff hot butter up a wildcat's ass. I've got it down to about 2.8:1 with 45-55 ohms; gotta take the MFJ 259 back on the roof and spend more time.

Moving the slider is like micro-surgery. So far, my lowest SWR is about 3/4 inch from the long limit of the slider.

I think if I could tune past the upper limit of the slider, I might find a lower SWR spot for 147 or so. Earth ground vs. No earth ground made no SWR difference. Coax loss was about -3.3, better than expected. Oh yeah, it will resonate 1:1 at 124 mhz with the slider at about mid point.

Maybe I need to take the bolt cutters to the ends of some of the elements. It's intended to be 2M only, not dual band, but, SWR on 70 cm was better, about 2.25: 1 I'm almost tempted to run my RF output through the miracle whip antenna and then to the beam, in order to get some tuning capability at the transceiver end. Any tips on tuning a beam will sure be appreciated. With those SWR figures, I'm figuring you do not have it assembled correctly. >Can't be done.

The little MW 'matcher' is designed to only feed that short whip attached to it. The beam is fed with coax - the two won't work together. Properly assembled and adjusted you should have no need for any tuning capability at the transceiver end. BTW, what's your call sign? 73, Lon - W3LK Naugatuck, Connecticut Logged.

Hi W3LK, thanks much for replying, I think you're exactly right on the assembly. When I bought it used at a yard sale, it was believed to be properly assembled. The Cushcraft documentation specifies exactly which element goes where.

-- But when I measured the elements and compared the figures with Cushcraft's, the lengths were slightly wrong (unless Cushcraft measures from end to end then subtracts a value) -- Another oddity, the distance between holes is about the same, not spaced according to Cushcraft docs. -- It's an approximation to sequence the elements according to Cushcraft docs when some of the elements are exactly the same length.

-- The passive reflector element is 2 inches too short, so that should probably be first priority - replacing or ahem, 'lengthening.' -- I could probably diddle with the placement of the active element, by moving it forward or backward - not the manufacturers intent. I can get some bolt cutters and re-do the elements properly, but I hesitate to mess with a commercial antenna. Likewise, I can drill new holes and properly space the elements. Other things come to mind that I should have done. -- Like tightening the PL259s with pliers -- Higher mast -- Should have tried all directions with the MFJ259 -- Should have checked electrical connectivity with an ohm meter to make sure all elements were electrically connected.

-- My mast U bolts might be too long. I think if I didn't have the MFJ259, I'd be dead in the water. 73/Jack Logged. PL-259s are designed to be finger tightened; not locked down with a pair of pliers! If you are using GOOD quality connectors, screwing the hood onto the SO-239 with your fingers is more than sufficient. Then apply two or three layers of good electrical tape over the joint, including where the coax goes into the connector. Nothing further is really needed, but you can brush or spray on a couple of coats of LiquidDip, if you are in an area where the connector will rest in standing water.

Do NOT use Coax-Seal, not only is it over kill, it is nasty stuff to try to remove. 73, Lon - W3LK Naugatuck, Connecticut Logged. Cushcraft has made a lot of beams over the years and the designs have changed. So The manual you have may not be for the model you have. Dj Alex Electro Enterprises there. For the Cushcrafts I am aware of, the element lengths do decrease from reflector to the front. HOWEVER this is not true of all VHF/UHF beams especiaally those with a significantly tapered boom.

Always read the manual. You also did not state if you have the beam mounted for hozizontal or vertical polorization. If vertical a matal mast can distort the SWR and pattern.

First, never paint anything RF black. It contains carbon. That in itself may cause problems.

However for a radiating element it may not affect it. If it causes conducting across radiating and parasitic elements or insulators it'll be a problem.

Pigment in paint can cause all kinds of troubles around antennas. Did you download the manual from Cushcraft? It is possible something is assembled incorrectly.

I have not come across problems with commercial antennas if using their instructions unless something was blown on a multiband or loaded antenna. Something you won't have on a single band antenna. I recently had an antenna with a flashed SO-239. It looked fine until removed from the antenna. Why tighten a PL-259 with pliers? You won't gain anything except maybe a jammed or damaged connector. Ulead Videostudio Se Dvd Download Chip. If it is to water proof it use lined heat shrink, 3M mastic, or at least several layers of 3M 88 or 33 tape over rubber tape or change to N connectors.

They're water tight when correctly assembled. Good luck and 73. Logged Pages: [ 1].